No matter what shock or fork you have, they all require proper adjustment to work to their maximum potential. Preload adjuster (3)- Is the larger nut on the top of the front forks (not to be confused with the smaller rebound damping). Using different sag front and rear will have huge effect on steering characteristics. First, push down on the rear end about 25mm (1″) and let it extend very slowly. – Create poor rear wheel traction. – The rear “tops out” too fast under braking, causing the rear wheel to jump – The bike feels unstable. Remember take it one step at a time, take a test ride after each change, and take notes on whether that change made a difference. – Good result during braking. As the wheel is forced upward by the bump, the compression circuit controls the speed at which the suspension compresses, helping to keep the spring from allowing an excessive amount of travel or bottoming of the suspension.         Cause: The problem here is the ride height is set up correctly for his riding style, but the fork action is obviously too soft whenever weight is transferred to the front (as when hard braking). But never use car or motorcycle motor oil because it contains additives that will damage the seals and O-rings causing seal failure and possible damage to the fork. But that process also slightly increases the durometer hardness of the tire. Good question. Learning a new skill sometimes feels as if it requires scaling a linguistic learning curve that makes surmounting Mt. All bikes will have different characteristics which means my starting riding temperature is different than yours.         Cause: If the bike feels this way, then probably there is too much front end weight bias. After re-valving, the adjusters will be brought into play, and when you make an adjustment, you will be able to notice that it affects the way the way the fork or shock performs. Simple. Decrease rebound to keep rear end from packing. The ride is quite harsh–just the opposite of the plush feel of too little rebound. It’s important that you, Forks are plush, but increasing speed causes loss of control and traction. First see manual. Marzocchi uses different weights with different fork models. The bike also seems to have a dropped-down, “nose low, rear-end-high” attitude while riding. A well adjusted and lubricated chain transmits the power smoothly (you can actually see the difference on a dyno), lengthens the service life, smooths out your gear changes and makes the bike feel better to ride. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and builds for all Indian models. Increase rebound “gradually” until control and traction are optimized and chatter is gone. Typically, damping rod forks have very little low-speed damping and a great deal of high-speed damping.         Cause: The cause is too much front end weight transfer under braking. The solution is to re-valve the active components to gain a proper damping curve. If you have a conventional chain-drive bike, you’ll see the back wheel’s position can be altered with the adjusters. This doesnt mean that you cant use them any more but more you just have to be ready for them to have a little less grip than they used to. The fluid is also used for lubrication and should be in-compressible. What you want to end up with is what we’ve shown in the main diagram – where the distances “A” (the gap between the string and the edge of the tire) and “B” (ditto) on the trailing edge of the front wheel are equal to each other; And the distances “A” and “B” on the trailing edge of the back wheel are equal to each other. If there were no drag in the linkage the bike would come up a little further.         Cause: These characteristics could be the result of a squared-off rear tire (too much straight-line riding) or notchy or too-tight steering head bearings;         Solution: if the bike has a steering damper mounted, it may be adjusted too tight. wheels, brakes, suspension components below the springs, etc.). Solution: Decrease compression “gradually” until bike neither bottoms or rides high. Valving–the mechanical hardware that creates damping. Topping Out–occurs when the suspension extends to its limit. Bumps and ripples are felt directly in the triple clamps and through the chassis. Measure the distance from the axle vertically to some point on the chassis (metric figures are easiest and more precise; Mark this reference point because you’ll need to refer to it again. Dean Lonskey’s pictures coming for free at Superbike-Coach classes and track days. However, it’ much more critical to take seal drag into account on the front end because it is more pronounced. The rear end wants to hop and skip when the throttle is chopped during aggressive corner entries. – Will give a light feeling in the front. Springs are position sensitive, caring only how much they have been compressed, not how quickly (as with damping). Once again, L2 and L3 are different due to stiction or drag in the seals and bushings, which is particularly high for telescopic front ends. Looking at Belay 10, 15, or 20W for my Roadmaster but not sure what is best option. Use the handling scenarios and the chart to determine if you need to change your bike’s attitude. One word of caution regarding setup and tires: Don’t get dragged into adjusting your suspension to account for tire wear over the course of a track day without taking notes. When you let go, the suspension should rebound quickly to its original position–but not beyond. What is being illustrated here is that you MUST check your tire pressure on a regular basis (about once a week is reasonable) and to be particularly aware of it on cold days. 2003-2020 © Copyright - Superbike-Coach Corp, New date for Track Academy from last December, Superbike-Coach Announces Its 2021 Schedule. The front end is compressing so low that the bike’s weight tries to pivot around the steering head, causing the side-to-side movement. Try stiffening up the rebound damping in small steps, and remember to do the front and rear separately, not simultaneously; that way he can readily see if one or the other makes a difference. May 30, 2015 | Comments; If you thought that your bike only needed engine oil and brake oils, think again. Decrease compression until harshness is gone. In most instances it stabilizes the tire compound by decreasing its heat generation. Compression Damping (2) – the one on the bottom near the axle is compression damping. The pics will give you the idea. Look for a high-VI fork oil.  A:  A “RACE” tire heat cycle is when a tire is brought up to operating temperature and run for some laps, then allowed to cool. It’s a special tool made to assist you in measuring sag by allowing you to read sag directly without subtracting. It probably won’t be lined up perfectly, but plonking yourself in the saddle and using your own weight (or that of a friend) is a good start. After hitting bumps at speed, the front tire tends to chatter or bounce. Each time your TRACK tires get hot they release chemicals from deep within the rubber. Aggressive input at speed lessons control and chassis attitude suffers. Please note that these numbers tend to be too high for maximum traction but in turn increase the life of the tire. Step 3: Upward Compression of suspension with Rider on the bike and measure. Street riding entails many different pavement characteristics, and the road is generally bumpy compared to a racetrack, so it’s better to err on the soft side if you are unsure. However, too much front sag combined with too little rear sag could make the bike unstable. When rear end packs in, tires generally will overheat and will skip over bumps. Here are some basic symptoms of suspension damping problems that you might find affecting your bike. Trying to figure out a handling problem can be tricky. Furthermore, if you can achieve the damping curve that is needed, it does not matter what brand name is on the component. It should maintain the pre-determined sag, which will allow the steering geometry to remain constant. Also, because the valves have such small venturis, the adjuster change makes very little difference. In part, this is due to the fact that the manufacturer has put the damping curve in an area outside of your ideal range. There’s little rear end “squat” under acceleration. Order Fork Oil for your vehicle and pick it up in store—make your purchase, find a store near you, and get directions.         Solution:   The quickest solutions here are to increase the front fork spring preload and/or raise the front ride height by dropping the fork tubes in the triple clamps, or decrease the rear ride height by shortening the shock (if possible). Spectro Oils of America hereby states that it meets all American Made Motorcycle Manufacturer's warranty requirements set forth by the motorcycle manufacturer. You’ll get a lot of opinions on what tire pressure to run, but the correct tire pressure for you is not a matter of polling other rider’s opinion. A tire design that runs cooler needs to run a lower pressure (2-3 psi front) to get up to optimum temperature.  Remember carcass flex to generate additional heat. For longest tire life it is my recommendation that you strive to keep them at the higher limit of those recommendations (regardless of what your motorcycle owner’s manual might say to the contrary.) – Creates oversteer. Sag–the amount the front or rear of the bike compresses between fully topped out and fully loaded with a rider (and all of his riding gear) on board in the riding position. As speed increases, so does harshness. As speed increases, so does harshness. Riding the bike repeatedly over the same road after making small changes to the damping adjusters is a good way to distinguish between the characteristics and determine a good setting. As the chemicals are released the tires lose some of their grip. It does not matter what components you have, (Ohlins, Fox, KYB, Showa), matching them to your intended use and weight will vastly improve their action. "TRUE HAPPINESS IS IN THE HEART,NOT IN THE OUTSIDE FIXES!! “Dennis Smith of Dunlop’s Sport Tire Services recommends an increase of two to four pounds in front tires and six to eight in the rear (sportsrider.com)”. The Indian oil viscosity is rated in centistokes so when I first changed my fork oil I made many phone calls to many companies to see if I could find a match for a less expensive oil that I can get from my distributor as I am a shop owner, I never found any manufacturer that had anything exact, so this last time when I change the fork oil I just bit the bullet and got the Indian oil. Then take a 30-40 minute ride on your favorite twisty piece of road to get your tire temperature up, then measure the tire pressure immediately after stopping.         Solution:   Having a front tire skip over bumps on the exit of a turn is a sign that the fork is topping out–without enough sack to allow the suspension to sink into depressions in the road. – Bad under braking (diving). Where it stops, measure the distance between the wiper and the bottom of the triple clamp again. If the axle is back three-and-half notches on one side, you make sure it’s back three-and-a-half on the other. An easy way to check if your shock spring rate is in the ballpark is to measure the rear “free” sag, that is, the sag without your weight on the bike. Movement of the Forks within the Triple Clamps,  can be substituted for the preload adjuster. How to set your sag. Problem: When Richard gets on the brakes aggressively while approaching a corner, the bike’s rear end begins to swap side-to-side, and feels as if it wants to pivot around the front. These are then matched to a very basic shim stack which creates a damping curve for the given suspension component. If the measurement is not exactly vertical the sag numbers will be inaccurate (too low). Whenever you tension the chain or move the wheel for any reason, you generally just line it up against the alignment marks stamped on the swingarm. However, if suspension bottoms at the place were the maximum grip is essential the tire cannot create the best traction, because it also has to perform as spring. Symptom: Bumps and ripples are felt directly in the triple clamps and through the chassis. However, the fork action and overall bike handling is fine everywhere else.         Cause:   The trouble is probably due to a combination of sag and ride height settings that leaves his bike riding high up front. Determining the style of the rider also affects the way your setup reacts for a particular person.  A smooth rider will have a different setup compared to a point and shoot style of riding.  It is all relative to you and your bike. As temperature goes, so goes pressure. The rear suspension compliance is poor and the “feel” is vague. Step 1:  Extend the suspension completely and measure. It is NORMAL for a tire to lose about 1 pound per square inch (psi) per month. Reducing the oil level reduces the force at the bottom, giving a more linear rate. Worse? The more heat, the greater the opportunity the tire has to regenerate itself by shedding the ‘used’ layers of rubber (to a point). Free Sag–the amount the bike settles under its own weight. Thanks. Proper tire balance and pressure. Looking at Belay 10, 15, or 20W for my Roadmaster but not sure what is best option. Too hard spring ratio: – Good under braking. So for example, starting at a front tire pressure of 32.5 psi should bring you up to 36 psi hot. Local indy carries Belray brand fork oil. Proper chain adjustment minimally affects the overall length of the rear swingarm.  Although this is not significant it is a factor because of other the proper chain tension can have an impact on how the suspension reacts.  This negative effect has become less pronounced with new motorcycle models because of the suspension pivot being located so close to the counter shaft. He doesn’t have any confidence because his bike feels nervous and twitchy, especially over bumpy sections where it doesn’t absorb the bumps, and his tires lose grip easily. Get free shipping, 4% cashback and 10% off select brands with a Gold Club membership, plus free everyday tech support on aftermarket Harley-Davidson Fork Oil & motorcycle parts.. There are trade offs that can be given for each adjustment that you make to your bike. This translates into an unstable feel at the clip-ons. It can also be used as a standard tape measure. This will also give you the added benefit of a smooth ride for daily use; you can always dial in a tad more rebound when you get to your favorite road where the surface is more of a known quantity. Decrease rebound to keep rear end from packing. Shop the best Harley-Davidson Fork Oil for your motorcycle at J&P Cycles. Ride is harsh, but not as bad as too much rebound. Have a third person balance the bike from the front. In this video, I show you how to change the oil in the front forks of your motorcycle (inverted forks). As speed increases and steering inputs become more aggressive, a lack of control begins to appear. Recommended for use with our fork suspension products. If anyone has done any comparisons of different oils viscosities, volumes, etc, and can share their opinions or preferences, that would be appreciated. Outside temperatures affect your tire pressure far more profoundly, however. Damping General  is viscous friction. Once again, make small changes between test sessions over the same road to feel and compare the different settings. Adjust (B) through the adjusting ring nut (3)  After adjusting, tighten the ring nut (4). In the case of 15W-50 motorcycle oil, remember that a 10W-50 is still a 50 weight oil and will deliver the exact same protection in extreme heat. Contrary to the fork’s controls, rear rebound damping is changed from the bottom of the shock. The harsh, unforgiving ride makes the bike hard to control when riding through dips and rolling bumps at speed. The key thing to remember about damping is that it is dependent on fluid movement. Front end fails to recover after aggressive input over bumpy surfaces. It all depends on how the bike’s handling “feels” to you. Solution: Insufficient rebound: Increase rebound until wallowing and weaving disappears and control and traction are optimized. Where it stops, measure again. For the track you’ll have to drop the cold tire pressures an additional 10/20%. Each tire model is different. I ride two up and I'm a full figured man!!! JavaScript is disabled. Solution: First, verify that oil height is correct. Loss of traction will cause rear end to pogo or chatter due to shock returning too fast on exiting a corner. The trick is to get a ball of twine, or you can do this exercise if you can somehow find two straight edges that are longer than the bike. Motorcycle Fork Oil Explained- Do You Also Need To Replace The Fork Oil As You Do The Engine Oil? Am I going to need to drain and go back tomorrow and get 'E', or is it just going to give me of a more stiff ride? 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